Cennin, Beaumaris

We were on Anglesey visiting my family for Christmas and as my parents’ favourite place to eat, the Bull in Beaumaris, was full we decided to try the Cennin. The restaurant – its Welsh name means ‘leek’ in English – is the creation of chef Aled Williams and is a reflection of his passion to bring creativity and great Welsh ingredients together.

‘Fish in Chip’ was a starter on the menu and met most of the criteria of what I think of as a good fish and chips. It was defined as crispy Plaice and potato ballotine with crushed peas, lemon confit and tartare butter sauce and at £8.45 for a starter it needed to be pretty good.

The plaice was wrapped inside the potato to create the sausage ballotine shape and was then battered and deep fried. The crispy batter was very, very light in taste and texture and was easy to cut through to get at the soft mashed potato filling and the light delicate plaice in the centre. The potato was fluffy and delicious and didn’t dominate the sliver of plaice it surrounded. The meal was topped off by cress-like material which, of course, was discarded.

Yet the stars of the meal were everything else on the plate. The crushed peas were out of this world with a vibrant, intense taste which was beautifully balanced by the lemon confit and tartare butter sauce. The tartare was just the right consistency and supported rather than fought against the other flavours on the plate. This was important due to the subtle flavour of the fish and potato. The depth of flavour in the tartare was amazing and the use of the lemon, which had had time to develop an intense flavour, added a fresh zesty acidity that was a genuine pleasure.

There was no need for a lemon wedge, salt, vinegar or other sauces as the kitchen staff had got it all spot on.

It was washed down with a bottle of Snowdonia Ale from Bragdy Mws Piws / ThePurple Moose Brewery which was the perfect accompaniment to a superb and innovative dish.