Colemans, South Shields

Colemans is an award-winning chippy. It wins awards not only for the quality of its food but also for the sustainable way in which it sources its raw materials. And it’s a Tyneside institution with a proud tradition of quality going back to 1926. Although South Shields is a slightly depressing, post-industrial seaside town, the reputation of the restaurant made the visit a necessity.

I went for line-caught haddock and chips at £8.50 with mushy peas an extra £1.20.

The haddock had a clean, fresh taste and the soft big flakes of fish made it a pleasure to eat. The batter was well-cooked with a good flavour and not a hint of oiliness. You had the feeling that the oil was probably fresh that morning as the taste was so clean.

The chips were again very well cooked and all their creamy Maris Piper qualities were on show.

The peas, on the other hand, were a disappointment – an overly thick consistency detracted from a decent flavour that didn’t manage to match the quality of the rest of the fish and chips. The meal came with a big piece of lemon that had too many pips. Adorning the plate were two sprigs of flat leaf parsley intended to add an additional aesthetic element – they didn’t add to my enjoyment of the meal and were surplus to requirements.

The tartare was all wrong for me. It came in a small plastic pot, which was clearly designed to manage portion size and offer consistency of presentation, but it just looked ugly. A small white ramekin would have been much more appropriate for an establishment aspiring to high standards. To add to this it was too thick and was therefore more a mustard than a sauce. It was clearly homemade and had a reasonably good flavour balance but for me its inelegance, in texture and presentation, spoilt it.

The meal was washed down with a 7up and a glass of water where the water came in a charming bottle of H₂OUSEWATER.

It was a pleasure to go and the fish and chips were fantastic but just need more effort on the extras.

Colemans popularity was evident: as we left the queue waiting patiently to be seated stretched out of the door and beyond.

I’m looking forward to going back when they celebrate their centenary – only 13 years to go.