Old Gate, Hebden Bridge

 

 

 

The Old Gate is an old favourite even though it’s only been open since last October. Since the demise of Moyles bar, restaurant and hotel in the floods of 2012, the Old Gate has cornered the market for quality beer in Hebden town centre with a serious approach to sourcing an intelligent selection. They have also built their reputation on good food. It’s not cheap pub food but it seems to be well cooked and it was therefore inevitable that I would review their fish and chips at some point.

It’s a big old pub. The pub which was previously on the site, which had gone through many unsuccessful reincarnations since being converted from two houses many years ago, was rumoured to have been built on an Indian burial grave and therefore this new venture was never going to be a success. However, the new owners ripped out the old pub and started afresh with a long bar in the back of the pub and big open-plan L shaped drinking area with a mix of bench and more traditional pub seating including the obligatory sofas. I have a problem with sofas in pubs. As it’s so open-plan and so busy it can get incredibly loud downstairs but at least this is a catalyst to get me to go home! 

Upstairs is given over to eating most of the time and there is an event space for comedy nights etc. the space is well set out into a mix of table sizes and has its own dedicated staff to get your food and your beer. On the first weekend of the Hebden Bridge’s arts festival we had friends from Manchester along with their two children along with a mutual friend from Blackpool and by far the easiest place to accommodate 7 of us for lunch was around one of the tables upstairs. The space is quite quiet at lunchtimes and therefore ideal for the children to be children and space enough so that no one was shoved into a corner as can be the case in some many pub-restaurants.

 I went for the beer battered haddock, twice fried chips and mushy peas at £11.

The presentation was interesting as the battered fish sat on top of the chips, the mushy peas came in a mini saucepan and the tartare in a small shallow dish not too dissimilar from a ceramic dipping dish . I don’t agree with fish being on top of the chips as it just makes the chips sweat but this does seem to be the norm. Normally I wouldn’t like the gimmick of the iddy biddy saucepan but for some reason I quite liked its cuteness. However, I did have a downer on the dipping dish as it just didn’t sit right with the other elements – and the colour was wrong as well.

The fish was excellent. Big chunks, great flavour and well cooked. The batter was delicious and crisp and the various light and dark brown hues of the batter was appealing.  The chips were clearly twice cooked. They looked a fantastic deep brown, had a crispy outer and a soft scrumptiousness inside.

The cute saucepan contained some really well seasoned mushy peas which packed a really good flavour punch. The tartare was the only disappointment of the meal, and not just because I had clearly taken issue with its container. The mixture was too fine and green and had an overly acidic taste to it. Not pleasant at all and a shame in the context of the quality that came from the rest of the dish.

The meal came with a good chunk of lemon, a salt cellar and a good vinegar dispenser. The whole thing was washed down with a pint, or two, of Magic Rock’s excellent Curious .